By Lisa Ulmer

After studying here for several months, I have only just brushed the surface of Hawaii’s cultural heritage and natural wonders. I have learned enough, however, to know that Hawaii has much more to offer than its often-touted pristine beaches, crystalline blue oceans, and perfect weather.

Hawaii may be classified as “almost” abroad, but do not let that fool you. Hawaii is twice as far from Philadelphia as Europe is, and many native Hawaiians are pushing for the return of Hawaiian sovereignty that was lost during the United States-assisted overthrow of the Hawaiian monarchy in 1893. Hawaiian and English are the two officially recognized languages of Hawaii, but “mahalo” is heard more often than “thank you.”

Many people here also speak Pidgin English, which is a blend of English, Hawaiian, Japanese, Chinese, and other Polynesian and Asian languages. With this collection of cultures, Hawaii has been called the melting pot of the Pacific. However, it has also been labeled a “plate lunch,” a Hawaiian dish consisting of a main entrée, two scoops of white rice, and one scoop of macaroni, because while the different cultures in Hawaii co-exist, they are careful to preserve their cultural distinctions.

The University of Hawaii in Manoa is almost 14 times larger than Haverford, and its population is a mix of local students, full-time students from the mainland, and study abroad/transfer students. Interestingly, when I first started classes here, I heard that students in Hawaii generally tend to listen rather than speak, a classroom dynamic that contrasted with the mainland. The reason for this difference comes from the more relaxed nature of the islands (the “aloha spirit”) and a strong desire to show respect for everyone’s opportunity to participate.

Nevertheless, I have found all of my classes to be highly motivating with multiple lively debates between the engaging professors and interested students. Although I have thoroughly enjoyed all of my classes, one of my favorites is Ethnic Literature of Hawaii. I have learned much in this class about Hawaiian cultural and political history through texts written by both local and indigenous authors, such as Haunani-Kay Trask, Nora Okja Keller, and R. Zamora Linmark. For anyone looking for a broad introduction to Hawaiian literature, The Best of Bamboo Ridge, edited by Eric Chock and Darrell Lum, would be a good choice.

During my semester here, I have had the opportunity to appreciate the overwhelming abundance of natural beauty that Hawaii has to offer. Volcanoes, mountains, valleys, waterfalls, rainforests: you name it, Hawaii has it. One of the things I will miss most is seeing the mountains that have become a normal view for me wherever I go on Oahu or any of the other islands. To name just a few of the natural wonders not to be missed on Oahu, there are the iconic Diamondhead, Hanauma Bay, and Pali Lookout, the location of the 18th-century Battle of Kaleleka’anae that resulted in the unification of the Hawaiian islands for the first time and the installation of Kamehameha I as their first king. In addition, Makapu’u Point Lighthouse and Manoa Falls are two worthwhile hikes with gorgeous views.

It is also inexpensive to take inter-island trips, and I have traveled to Maui, Kauai, and the Big Island during my breaks. Visiting the volcanic crater Haleakala on the island of Maui is akin to stepping onto another planet, and the rich colors of the Na Pali Coast on Kauai are breathtaking to behold. When visiting the Big Island, it is possible to take a wagon or horseback ride through Waimea Valley, the Valley of the Kings, which contains a 1200-foot waterfall.

There is also the 400-foot long Akaka Falls, the Punalu’u black sand beach, complete with basking sea turtles, or “honu,” and Volcano National Park containing parts of the still active Kilauea volcano and the Thurston lava tube. One of the local resorts hosts a luau reputed to be one of the most authentic in Hawaii. It begins with the roasting of a kalua pig in a Polynesian earthen oven (“umu”) and a Hawaiian earthen oven (“imu”). An historical narrative of Savai‘i and the origins of Polynesia is then woven through a series of songs and dances, which include Maori songs from New Zealand, the poi ball dance, the Samoan fire knife dance, and the Tahitian tamure.

In terms of its overwhelming natural beauty and warm weather, cooled by the nearly omnipresent trade winds, Hawaii is indeed the paradise it is universally regarded to be. If you study here, however, you will see that much more beauty lies beneath the surface of Hawaii’s external splendor. Should you come, be sure to enjoy the opportunity for new friendships, and do not forget to buy a malasada (a deep-fried pastry coated with cinnamon or sugar and/or stuffed with sweet fillings) and, of course, a cone of shave ice. 

Aloha!

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